Sep 10 2008

What should be done in the garden before the first frost?

Rose| Category: fruits and vegetables, herbs | 0 Comments

Even if you are not located in Idaho, this might be interesting and informative for you.

Via: U of I Master Gardenerat the Idaho Statesman

Now that the initial shock of “what I didn’t get done this summer” has worn off, it’s time to think about what can be accomplished before the snow flies.

According to the National Climate Data Center, Boise’s average first frost date is Sept. 22.

If you already have an herb garden, watch for the basil to die back. It’s the most frost tender of all herbs and is a signal that nights are getting cold and all other annuals will soon be gone.

If you have perennial herbs in pots that need to be brought inside for the winter, do so soon after the basil dies back.

If you don’t have an herb garden but have been thinking about starting one, first find a suitable space. Most herbs need full sun but will tolerate afternoon shade. That makes the east, northeast or southeast parts of the yard the best areas for an herb garden.

Some herbs are annual, some biannual and some are perennial. Some are grown for their leaves, some for their seeds. A Purdue University Advanced Master Gardener put together a list of herbs and the culture of each one. You can download the list and keep it for future use. Purdue University is in Zone 5, so any herbs that can be grown there can be grown in our Zone 6.

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Jul 04 2008

Homemade Bug-Fighters

Rose| Category: fruits and vegetables | 0 Comments

Via: Alameda Sun

You don’t need to use toxic products to keep the bugs away from you or your garden. Try these natural remedies for bug problems.
  • Beer is delicious for snails and slugs. They drink, they drown, no problem. Place a pie pan or shallow dish of beer out in the garden, under shade (flat, leftover beer is fine for them). At night your slimy friends will come out and drown, but they’ll die happy.
  • Eggshells will cure tomato blossom end rot — simply save your eggshells and then crush them gently. Don’t completely pulverize them into powder, but leave them in small shards. That will also dissuade snails and slugs, as well as give needed calcium to your tomatoes.
  • Ladybugs are a perfect solution to an aphid problem. Your local nursery (such as Encinal, Thomsen’s or Evergreen) will carry ladybugs. Praying mantises are also great bug-eaters.
  • Simple dish soap and water (we prefer basic blue Dawn brand) will also kill off aphids when sprayed on your roses and other plants. Keep a spray bottle handy for aphid emergencies in the garden.
  • Consider interplanting marigolds with your tomatoes and squash. The scent of the marigolds will help keep pests away from your veggies.
  • The scent of lavender is pleasant to people but mosquitoes don’t like it — they can’t smell us over the scent. So rub your hands over some lavender blossoms or leaves and smooth over your arms, neck and legs. Lavender is also an aromatherapy scent which will help calm you when nervous or sleepless.
  • Got yellowjackets? Don’t spray them with poison. They are only doing what nature intended when looking for food. You can distract them with baited traps. No trap? Put a piece of bologna or lunch meat on a string and hang it inside an empty milk jug. Fill the bottom of the jug a few inches with soapy water. The yellowjackets will go for the meat, fall in and drown.
  • Don’t have to kill flies, either. You can shoo them toward a door or window and then let them out. Keep doors and windows shut or screened to keep your food and home safe from flies.
  • Always let bees outside rather than kill them inside. Leave spiders alone, too, especially in the garden. They kill and eat mosquitoes, flies and other pests.
  • Sprinkle salt or diatomaceous earth into your carpets, let it sit overnight, then vacuum in the morning. Say bye-bye to your fleas.
Jul 04 2008

PROCTOR’S TIPS: Natural insect control for your garden

Rose| Category: fruits and vegetables | 0 Comments

Via: 9NEWS.com

KUSA - The bugs are back. We worry about most of them far more than we should. In many cases, simple natural remedies are far more effective in controlling them than using chemicals.
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Too many of us freak out at a simple outbreak of aphids or white flies. Don’t resort to pesticides unless it’s a life-or-death situation.

Let’s start with those. Some insects can kill trees; the best example of the worst damage is the pine beetle ravaging Colorado forests. On the plains, tussock moths may attack spruce trees, while borers often target ash trees and lilacs. The plants that are most vulnerable are those already stressed by drought or over-watering. They’re equally bad.

These insects can kill valuable specimens. Your best defense is to care for your trees properly. Use a systemic pesticide as needed. These pesticides are applied at the base of the plant and watered in. The plant absorbs the pesticide through its roots and spreads it throughout the plant. Insects that chew on treated leaves or bark will die. For specifics on your particular plants, check with a nursery professional. Get pro-active if you have plants that are vulnerable.

For everything else you can relax a bit. Nature has a way of correcting itself if left alone. Birds, bats and the “good” bugs such as ladybugs, spiders and predator wasps are on your side. If you reach for chemicals every time you see an aphid on a rose, you’ll upset the balance, killing beneficial insects as well as the harmful ones.

If you want to take a more active approach, use soap. Our grandmothers and great-grandmothers regularly tossed their soapy dishwater onto their gardens. I never really wondered about this as a child, helping my grandma dry the dishes, but now it makes perfect sense. Soap kills bugs as effectively as any poison. It softens their hard exoskeletons and they literally melt away.

It’s easy to combat insect problems with soap. Mix about a tablespoon of liquid soap with water in a quart spray bottle. Use an all-natural soap such as Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soap. Detergent soaps should be avoided since they may have a photo-toxic reaction on the leaves and burn them.

Spray the undersides of leaves where insects tend to congregate. Lurking there will be aphids, white flies and spider mites. You must hit the insects directly. Several treatments may be required as eggs hatch.

Sometimes you can’t find the culprits that are chewing on your leaves. Leaf cutter bees actually saw off pieces, leaving a scalloped look to rose and redbud leaves in particular. Since they don’t actually chew–just cut–insecticides don’t work to prevent this. Learn to live with it. Leaf cutter bees use the leaves create little beds underground. They are harmless.

Sometimes you’ll see caterpillar damage on some plants. If they’re in the carrot family, such as dill, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace or carrots, leave the caterpillars alone. They’ll soon turn into beautiful yellow swallowtail butterflies. Caterpillars on tomatoes or geraniums aren’t so welcome. You can hand pick and squish them, or employ some children to do it. This was one of my chores as a boy. I became an expert at spotting them.

Before you get out the bug spray, think twice about the implications. I haven’t used sprays for twenty years and my garden is a picture of health. It’s alive with birds, bees, butterflies and bats. Given the chance, your garden will work out its own balanced ecosystem. And if you need to intervene, do it in an environmentally-friendly way.

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